Is feminism trending? Yeohlee Teng would probably say no, but the photos of suffragettes and ’60s-era women’s rights activists on her Pre-Fall mood board did feel particularly of-the-moment. “You can’t just think about fashion anymore,” said Teng. “You have to consider the social context. I was thinking about these women because of the turmoil that’s going on around us right now.” In lieu of splashing political messages on her clothes, Teng’s references informed the collection in a more utilitarian way. “I would like to imagine that I design clothes for you—easy to wear, urban, multifunctional, and useful,” she explained. A black, white, and gray palette with pops of cherry and fuchsia looked right for the no-fuss woman, ditto the wrinkle-resistant jersey, stretch cotton, and gabardine. The only trace of retro nostalgia came in the form of a blown-up daisy print. Otherwise, these pieces were spare, minimalist, and could more or less be worn like a uniform—zero styling required. Boxy silhouettes touched on Teng’s love of geometry, such as a pair of cigarette pants that were actually two inverted triangles sewn together. Ultimately, it was the tiniest details, like dropped shoulders, curved seams, and soft pleats, that added interest. One of Teng’s strengths is creating fluid volume without adding heft; her customers will especially be into the LBD with elbow-length sleeves, pockets, and a shirttail hem.